There must be few eateries with the kind of panoramic view that is enjoyed by The Brook at Troway – a pub cum restaurant that opened only a few months ago.
At a high point overlooking the rolling Moss Valley, it offers a feast for the eyes that can be enjoyed from a well-situated beer garden when weather permits, or from the restaurant inside, where wide picture windows allow you to gaze out as you dine.
We visited on a chilly Monday evening. There were a couple of large family groups in (The Brook has ample space for larger bookings and a private dining area as an option), but it was otherwise quiet.
Duty-manager Gina Johnson-Mills welcomed us and offered a choice of tables. With slate floor and chunky, colonial type furniture, The Brook inside is comfortable and warm. I wasn’t over keen on the stuffed fox and badger peering down at me from above, but that’s a personal choice. Big mirrors feature, and cushions add a softer touch.
There is a well-stocked bar and service is good.
The menu is appealing but not vast, and there are special seasonal choices that head chef Oliver Smith (formerly of Napoleon’s Casino) refreshes regularly.
We kicked off with a smoked salmon Caesar salad, with soft boiled egg, parmesan, and herb croutons, and the wild mushroom toasted bruschetta, topped with melted blue cheese.
Both looked extremely appetising, and taste did live up to expectations. The Caesar mayonnaise was irresistible, I was told, while wolfing down my deliciously savoury, creamy cheese mushrooms.
For mains, we opted for pan-fried lamb’s liver with caramelised red onions and mashed potato, served with mixed fresh vegetables and a jug of gravy, and a vegetarian choice of sweet potato and coconut curry with lemon and thyme rice.
Very tender liver was plentiful, with an exceptional gravy, and a buttery, fluffy mound of mash. The plate was left (if not licked) clean.
My curry was pleasant enough but a little bland... it needed a bit more punch, and I couldn’t really taste the coconut.
Sweet offerings were sticky toffee pudding, or Eton Mess. Small portions are offered on the menu so we tried, and adored, the Eton Mess. Fresh, tangy and sweet berries swirled in to meringue and cream was a perfect finish. With one glass of wine and a tonic water, the bill came to £45.15 for two.
The Brook underwent a major refurbishment before opening under new owner Glyn Smith in December.