Food review: Popular pub classics with a gourmet twist

Co Head Chef Ashley Bagshaw at The Rising Sun with the Pan seared duck breast, fennel & peaches, confit duck leg, duck fat fondant potato and duck jus.
Co Head Chef Ashley Bagshaw at The Rising Sun with the Pan seared duck breast, fennel & peaches, confit duck leg, duck fat fondant potato and duck jus.
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Pub classics with a gourmet twist are fast becoming a trademark of The Rising Sun, which prides itself at placing community at the heart of the business.

Just as with its decor, the Fulwood Road eatery’s menu offers a sprinkle of something special on top of your traditional pub fare.

The Rising Sun.

The Rising Sun.

“We’re not trying to re-invent the wheel, we just want to offer those pub classics that everyone loves with a bit of a twist,” says restaurant supervisor Ali Holden.

And that’s certainly what you get with the summer menu, which offers a more refined version of favourites such as fish and chips and ham and eggs.

Ali explains that the Rising Sun, which is owned by the Abbeydale Brewery, has a menu that changes from season to season in order to ensure that the produce is locally-sourced where possible.

And that extends to the local allotments too, with the Field to Fork scheme, through which residents can swap their home-grown fruit and vegetables for bar tokens.

Eton Mess at The Rising Sun.

Eton Mess at The Rising Sun.

When we walk in on a Tuesday evening, the restaurant is fairly quiet - but the attentive staff help to counteract that with friendly conversation and helpful recommendations.

As we’re saving ourselves for the mains, we swerve the eight starters on offer and go for a couple of the table nibbles instead in the form of olives and crackers with hummus.

The hummus tasted fresh and the olives were really delicious, The crackers were crispy, tasty and really complemented the hummus - but there really wasn’t enough of them to go with the hummus.

The lentil kofka that I chose for my main was the real highlight. The apricot-based curry offered a unique range of flavours, and the fresh-from-the-oven naan bread just melted in your mouth.

The salad of peas was a good choice too, with peas, mangetout, pea shoots, new potatoes, pearl onions and a mustard dressing that helped to give the dish the kick it needed. Both mains offered huge portions with flower garnishes that complemented the colours and flavours of the food.

I can’t remember the last time I had a chocolate brownie that tasted as good as the one I had for dessert, and my friend’s Eton Mess ticked all the right boxes.

Coming in at £43.05 for three courses for two people, and including a large wine and a soft drink, it’s pretty good value for money too. Definitely worth a visit!

Star ratings our fo five:

Food: 4

Service: 5

Atmosphere: 3

Value: 4

Three more to choose from

- The Millhouses, Abbeydale Road 
- The Milestone, Green Lane 
- The Bee Engine, Cemetery Road